Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 3 of 4)

Olivia Bullock and Abby Li reports on the Fall/Winter 2024 collections by major fashion maisons

Isabel Marant

Designers Isabel Marant and Kim Bekker presented us with a luxurious yet wearable collection this season. Playing to its strengths, Isabel Marant once again elevated classic knits, shearlings and leather to suit a season of “rough-meets-sexy”. Animal prints, fringes splayed across sleeves, and scarves studded and embroidered with pearls exhibited Marant’s timeless, exquisite taste. 

Loewe

Inspired by American artist Albert York, creative director Jonathan Anderson subverted occasion wear as we know it. His one-dimensional pieces, including cut-out jersey dresses accessorised with oversized belt-like buckles, highlighted his true craftsmanship. The collection also featured shearling aviator jackets, double-breasted leather coats and a dog fast asleep on a dress. “It’s about having fun and being lucky to do so,” he said. “Yeah, something roundabout there, make up whatever you want!” 

Loro Piana

Loro Piana’s brilliance with textiles was displayed once again with an abundance of wool and the world’s finest cashmere gracing the runway. Taking a more relaxed approach to formal clothing, the collection included rollnecks, jacket ensembles and tuxedo-based evening looks. Loro Piana also ditched structured pieces and opted for a highly executed display with a rich, earthy colour palette while achieving everyday comfort. 

Louis Vuitton

Nicolas Ghesquière seemed to have survived Fashion Week’s churning of creative directors as he entered his 10th anniversary with the French luxury brand. Combining past, present and future, the collection imparted Louis Vuitton’s travel-oriented spirit with three-piece sets, sheer and glittering dresses, and jackets contoured at the waist. 

Max Mara

Ian Griffiths’ collection |inspired by French author Colette was built upon the notion of a woman discovering her independence, liberated and fulfilled. Cashmere pieces, kimono-style coats, defined silhouettes and practically- styled bags projected a mature, yet sensual collection. Griffiths mused, “You’re a woman with a job to do, and you’re gonna get it done – that’s what these clothes are saying.” 

McQueen

New designer on the block Seán McGirr had limited time to dive into the archives with only three months to curate his latest collection, which featured chandelier-style, tiered turtleneck sweaters, hoofed boots and oversized tailored coats. Opting for a fusion between the East End of London with pimp and gangster characters like the Kray brothers, he also drew inspiration from paparazzi photos of the iconic Kate Moss and late Amy Winehouse. 

Miu Miu

Titled Individual Moments, Miu Miu’s latest collection encapsulated the idea of a woman’s conscious personal growth, as creative director Miuccia Prada explained, “Every single morning I decide if I’m going to be 15 years old, or a lady near death.” Her collection perfected staple wardrobe pieces including coats, cardigan jackets, pencil skirts, knit cardigans and fake minks. This was not the end of it, with suit trousers complemented by double-breasted long coats, and accessorised with pearl necklaces, brooches and purses – Miu Miu’s renowned chic reputation remains. combining it with camo to create Damouflage. 

Prada

Miuccia Prada and her co-creative director Raf Simons began their creative process around the bow. “Anything can be a starting point, whether we love it or hate it or think it’s silly or funny or political,” Simons said. The collection featured kitten heels, sheer dresses, silk lingerie, bows over bums, and a floral touch – a reworking of typical uniforms in a Prada way. 

Also see: Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 2 of 4)