Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 4 of 4)
Olivia Bullock and Abby Li reports on the Fall/Winter 2024 collections by major fashion maisons
Ralph Lauren
Based in Ralph Lauren’s 650 Madison Avenue headquarters, the brand’s latest collection, Lauren said, was built around women who have a “beauty that comes from an inner confidence… inspired by that woman, her sense of timelessness, her individuality – a style that is forever.” The collection was largely beige/ neutral, featuring a double- breasted suede suit, silk maxi skirts and dresses, and a focus on ties to tie the collection together! Yet another display of Ralph Lauren’s fitted but flowy designs emulating the spirit of “just the way you are”.
Sacai
Designer Chitose Abe had a goal in mind with her autumn/winter 2024 collection: to persuade people to dress up more. She took this message quite literally with her all-dress collection featuring 47 looks. Displaying her love of uniform, the collection featured over- the-knee stacked boots, army sweaters and oversized suit jackets. Showcasing signature Chitose, the runway military take on preppy was quintessentially Sacai.
Saint Laurent
Far from the expected winter designs, designer Anthony Vaccarello’s entire collection was crafted from the same fabric used for tights. The range of sheer blouses challenged the meaning behind ready-to-wear. This did not seem to bother Vaccarello, as he expressed, “I’d rather people loved it or hated it than feeling nothing at all.” The transparent extravaganza of clothing featured muted tones that were elevated with expert styling. In classic Vaccarello style, he even styled the tight-like material into headwraps.
Schiaparelli
Designer Daniel Roseberry’s ready-to-wear translated through “blazer variations, crisp slacks and separates, and dramatic eveningwear.” With a more relaxed take on tailoring (to Schiaparelli’s extravagant standards), a topless model displayed a flawless single-breasted suit jacket and matching pants with gold signature Measuring Tape Embroidery, a low crotch and black leather cowboy boots. The future of vintage is promising indeed!
Tod’s
With new creative director Matteo Tamburini at the helm, Tod’s autumn/winter collection took place at Milan’s largest tram depot. The collection featured Alfa Romeo-inspired grilles that tied together belts, shoes with dramatic fringe detailing, and four-layered wool and leather outwear. Combining urban and traditional, alongside the dichotomy of formal and informal, Tod’s took a new, refreshing approach to “ready-to-wear”.
Valentino
This year’s Valentino Le Noir collection unveiled the depths of black. Signature Valentino details like rosettes, ruffles, embroidery and lace transformed the stereotypically restraining hue into a canvas of elegance. From black lip gloss to textured bags to statement belts to dramatic gloves, every intricacy was explored with the elegance of the colour black. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s ambition is undeniably channelled through this powerful colour, a redefined one, as he proclaimed, “This is Valentino Black.”
Versace
Donatella Versace described the AW24 womenswear collection as “a good girl with a wild soul”. Don’t be fooled by the white-collar matching sets and button-down shirts… When you see the bold animal print, waist-high side slit and crystal- encrusted shoulder details, you know she means business. When the models hit the black carpet in dramatic eyeliner and spiky hair, one could only think “subversive glamour”.
Y/Project
Despite cancelling its runway show, Y/Project still impressed us with Glenn Martens’ signature fabric deconstruction and futuristic form. Exaggerated outerwear, dramatic draping and fluid footwear amplified the brand’s vision of individuality and independence. Star-studded appearances by Charli XCX, Tyga and Ye made the lookbook a provocative alternative to the runway.
Also see: Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 3 of 4)
