Couture Spring/Summer 2025 (part 1 of 3)

Bayleigh Guo reports on the Spring/Summer 2025 couture collections by major fashion maisons

Ashi Studio

Inspired by famed French brothel keeper Madame Claude and influenced by Parisian history, this collection featured three essential elements – the French, the sensual and the bourgeois – that in turn informed an array of exquisitely tailored lingerie-inspired pieces, striking statement skirts and flawlessly fitted gowns. Corsetry took centre stage while couture- crafted dogs embellished with matching haute joaillerie accessories added a whimsical yet luxurious touch.

Chanel

Transitioning from Virginie Viard’s departure to Matthieu Blazy’s arrival, Chanel’s collection embraced aestheticism in freshness, youthfulness and lightness. Moving away from classic tones, it was infused with more vivid colours along with pastel hues and modernised silhouettes. The collection even redefined the classic Chanel tweed suit with fresh proportions. Eveningwear embraced refined simplicity with streamlined satin and lamé creations, balancing craftsmanship with wearability. Presented in a serene Mobius- loop set, the show emphasised continuity and optimism, marking a graceful transition ahead of the next creative chapter.

Christian Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s SS25 haute couture collection was a whimsical exploration of childhood imagination, inspired by Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland and bursting with joy, dreams and playfulness. Drawing from fashion’s past, Chiuri presented a collection of fantasy and history, reimagining childhood nostalgia through crinolines, tiered capes and embroidered floral details, all in a muted palette of black, beige and white. Key influences included Surrealist painters and historical silhouettes, blending elements from the 17th century to Dior’s 1947 Bar jacket. Some designs evoked playful, childlike doodles, while others resembled delicate clouds.

Elie Saab

Following the celebration of the brand’s 45th anniversary in Riyadh, Elie Saab presented a refined and joyous spring couture collection in Paris. Inspired by a renewed sense of peace and beauty, the collection conveyed optimism through intricate floral appliqués, shimmering lace and feathered embellishments. Pale pink and absinthe exuded romance and lightness, while structured column dresses brought bold sophistication. Contrasting elements like dark denim and a striking black mermaid dress showcased Saab’s evolving couture vision, blending classic romance with contemporary strength.

Gambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli’s collection, Les Jardins de la Ménara, was inspired by the tranquil beauty of Marrakech’s historic gardens, a place of personal reflection for the designer. Infused with optimism and a desire for harmony, the collection featured voluminous silk taffeta skirts, hand-pleated chiffon gowns with ombré petals, and Mughal rose-embroidered brocades. Aiming to convey a sense of beauty and well-being, Valli’s collection was a poetic tribute to beauty, lightness and harmony.

Also see: Balenciaga’s launch plans for its collection with Automobili Lamborghini