Couture Spring/Summer 2025 (part 3 of 3)

Bayleigh Guo reports on the Spring/Summer 2025 couture collections by major fashion maisons

Ronald van der Kemp

Let the Sunshine In showcased Ronald van der Kemp’s signature upcycled couture style, blending Parisian influences from the 1970s and ’80s with eclectic, luxurious vintage fabrics. The collection featured bold, one-of-a-kind pieces, such as a mermaid gown in golden silk and jackets with folkloric embroidery. Van der Kemp’s creativity shone through in the resourceful use of materials, including Thai silks and leather remnants, and in his playful, puzzle-like designs. The collection embodied optimism, with each outfit standing out as a unique work of art, highlighting the brand’s fusion of the past and future.

Schiaparelli

Titled Icarus, this collection explored the legendary Greek character by pushing the boundaries of fashion. Daniel Roseberry aimed to combine antiquity with modernity, using dramatic corseting and sculptural designs to challenge the conventional idea of simplicity in contemporary fashion. The collection showcased extraordinary technical feats, including futuristic silhouettes and intricately moulded fabrications. The use of historical materials like early-20th-century ribbons added an element of vintage allure, while the innovation of modern couture techniques brought a sense of forward-thinking luxury.

Valentino

Alessandro Michele’s debut Valentino haute couture collection, Vertigineux, was a dramatic exploration of his personal and creative obsessions, drawing heavily from history, literature, art and cinema. The collection was infused with references to Roman culture and cinematic influences, merging the brand’s craftsmanship with Michele’s visionary imagination. Altogether, the collection evoked a sense of fantasy and time travel, capturing the essence of Valentino’s beauty while injecting Michele’s own imaginative energy into the house.

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s playful and layered exploration of AI and human creativity was presented with a twist: the narration was generated by AI, referencing Karl Lagerfeld’s iconic statement, “I am like a computer, plugged into Chanel mode.” The designers explored the possibilities of a single fabric, Italian silk gazar, using it to create 24 dramatic and varied looks. From minimalist trench coats to grand, baroque silhouettes, the collection played with form and texture, combining old-world couture with modern interpretations. It was an intelligent and playful celebration of craftsmanship, perfect for those who appreciate fashion’s deeper meaning.

Zuhair Murad

This season, Zuhair Murad presented a collection inspired by an idyllic island paradise, blending nature’s beauty with the romance of the 1950s and the elegance of the ’60s. Murad’s designs featured embellishments, including beading, pearls, sequins and floral motifs like palm fronds and hibiscus, describing “endless horizons and uncharted landscapes where wild festivities unfold”. By capturing a dreamy, escapist quality with dresses ranging from bold, transparent creations to classic glamour, Murad has crafted a diverse approach to feminism that reflects both beauty and resilience.

Also see: Couture Spring/Summer 2025 (part 2 of 3)