Menswear Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 2 of 4)
Olivia Bullock and Abby Li report on the Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collections by major fashion maisons
Dunhill
For his debut show, Simon Holloway retained Dunhill’s prim and proper image through his exquisite take on tailoring. The collection doubled down on layering, featuring trench coats, three-piece suits, turtlenecks, leather gloves and cashmere wool sets; all lightweight pieces despite their strapping image. Holloway explained the reasoning behind his modern take on men’s tailoring, saying, “There are menswear enthusiasts here… but I do think there’s a younger audience obsessed with tailoring and proper menswear.”
Fendi
Without noting a particular inspiration, Silvia Venturini Fendi emphasised the desire to achieve classic, functional clothing – with a Fendi twist, of course. She opted for a new look with skirt-like shorts in various fabrics and colours, introducing a feminine shape to the runway. The collection combined urban and country, an Italian take on the Scottish spirit. The varied collection displayed fisherman coats, waterproof wax jackets and hiking socks. Refusing to be pinned down by the typical boundaries of menswear, Fendi stated, “A collection is a collection, period.”
Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis drew inspiration for this season from decades past, explaining, “The 1920s used clothing as a way to celebrate freedom. And that expression of freedom is something that resonates with me, my heritage,and with Ferragamo.” The collection featured olive green and russet pieces, including oversized wool-cashmere overcoats and full leather looks. The signature pop of Ferragamo red, the fisherman’s uniform-inspired thigh-high boots and the square-toed utilitarian booties also added to the ultimate discussion of freedom in garments.
Giorgio Armani
Beginning with a visual of the designer walking up to the spyhole of his home, Armani’s eye served as the constant backdrop of the show. Despite the array of suit jackets and shirts, ties were nowhere to be seen. Instead, the collection featured herringbone, jacquard, textiles and, notably, a three-piece velvet suit. Armani also dipped his toe in sportswear with oversized ski gear. He said, “It’s variations on a theme. I don’t think men’s fashion needs to be changed every season… I believe it must not be an upheaval; the secret is to do the usual, in an unusual way.”
Givenchy
Drawing inspiration from Hubert De Givenchy himself, Givenchy’s house staff took to the directive table for this one, overseen by design director Josh Bullen. Running with Hubert’s love for cats, a long-hair cat print featured on a print shirt and bags. His house blanche that he would wear in his studio was also reimagined into both sleeve and sleeveless adaptations as a workwear top. Elements such as plaited hair print on archival scarves and velvet loafers also reflected his new interpretation of “Gentlemanliness is an expression of character.”
Gucci
Creative director Sabato De Sarno’s Ancora manifesto permeated throughout his collection. Ancora directly translates to ‘again.’ De Sarno described it as “telling a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.” His display featured trench coats, crystal collars and vests, and one-and-a-half-breasted suits with layered creases cinching at the waist. And of course, we cannot ignore the heavily featured Gucci Rosso, the house’s signature shade. Another Gucci masterpiece.
Hermès
Véronique Nichanian’s “dandy chic” collection with elements of “English fantasy” was a subtle nod to the luxury house’s equestrian roots. The versatile collection gave us much to ponder with crocodile belts and boots, patterned deerskin noodles, cashmere beanies and thick, leather platform boots. Similar to Dolce&Gabbana’s, the collection displayed slimmer tailored silhouettes. Quiet luxury at its finest.
