Menswear Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 3 of 4)
Olivia Bullock and Abby Li report on the Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collections by major fashion maisons
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant revealed her “preppy grunge” menswear collection in an intimate showroom. Designed in partnership with artistic director Kim Bekker, the collection featured cable-knit sweaters, Dad shirts and patterned gilets layered onto zip-up hoodies. Marant explained, “It’s all about wearing things in a spontaneous, unexpected way that gives the guy a special character.”
JW Anderson
JW Anderson’s collection was based around one of the designer’s favourite films: Eyes Wide Shut by Stanley Kubrick. The show was also a collaboration with artist Christine Kubrick, Stanley’s widow, drawing inspiration from her paintings. The collection featured hosiery over boxers that created a pantless look, velvet blazers with exaggerated shoulders, and lots of sheer tights. “Tights offer such an amazing second skin, and they can become a kink,” Anderson said. “This is also the sexiest we’ve ever gone – as far as I can go.”
Kenzo
Titled “A universal wardrobe spun from the Occident to the Orient”, Kenzo’s AW24 collection took us around the globe. The pillars of the collection remained Paris and Tokyo, with artistic director Nigo incorporating a traditional tatami-mat print and karakusa patterns into explorer looks such as multi-pocket jackets, deconstructed denim and cargo suits. Presented at France’s Bibliothèque Nationale Richelieu site, the show exhibited the brilliance of fusing cross- cultural fashion.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson’s collaboration with Richard Hawkins was a feast for creative consumers. The American artist is known for his provocative pieces of pop culture, porn and art history work translated into images of shirtless men like stained glass windows at the end of the room. Anderson challenged the algorithm of masculinity through the intentionally unbuckled belt, bare body parts, the one-piece fusion of shirt and sweatpants, and more. “Collaged Realness’’ was executed with the boldness in Hawkins’ paintings, the playfulness in Anderson’s designs, and the minimalism in the remaining pieces.
Louis Vuitton
This season’s LV runway brought the audience a modern interpretation on American Western wear. The significance of workwear to this wardrobe is channelled via denim pieces adorned with floral embroideries and sunbeams, as well as classic cowboy chaps, leather jackets and buffalo checks. Paying homage to Native Americans, the collection was created with artists from the Dakota and Lakota tribes. Together with bootmaker Timberland, Pharrell Williams staged an impeccable runway with the most authentic American spirit and the finest craftsmanship.
McQueen
Irish designer Seán McGirr made his debut for the British fashion house. His collection took on a darkened aesthetic with black, fitted leather pants; oversized knitwear with a cocoon-style hood; and long, tailored coats with fur detailing at the cuffs and neckline. The brand’s renowned tailoring was also visible through embellished blazers, pinstriped looks and cigarette pants. McGirr has big shoes to fill taking over from Sarah Burton’s 20-year tenure and, like his horsehair boots, he has left critics divided.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented Prada’s AW24 collection in an office-style environment appearing to coexist in the space of nature. When fitted raincoats, tweed jackets, boxy suits and oxford shirts were paired with swim caps, goggle- like glasses and leather sandals, the paradox was justified by the complexity of the relationship between humans and nature; untouchable nature carried by touchable fashion.
