Menswear spring/summer 2026 runway report (part 1 of 2)

Gloria Gao, Silver Hu and Zeyi Yang report on the spring/summer 2026 menswear collections from major fashion maisons

Burberry

Daniel Lee infused Burberry’s menswear with festival optimism and British summer energy. Slim 1960s-inspired tailoring appeared alongside weather-resistant outerwear enhanced by technical coatings. Trench coats were laser-cut with paisley patterns and finished with fringing and macramé detailing. The collection balanced heritage tailoring with youthful experimentation, projecting a renewed sense of glamour, playfulness and craftsmanship-driven modernity.

Dior Men

Jonathan Anderson’s debut explored a dialogue between archival codes and contemporary ease. Masculine interpretations of the Bar Jacket, relaxed capes, embroidered shorts, draped trousers and casually knotted ties conveyed a lived-in aristocracy. Historical references were softened through fluid styling and intellectual restraint, creating a wardrobe that felt refined yet approachable for a new generation seeking subtle luxury and expressive individuality.

Dries Van Noten

Julian Klausner explored the romantic dishevelment of a formal night out, blending formal archetypes with whimsical fantasy. Opera coats and tuxedo jackets intersected with biker shorts, sequins and thermal knits. Trompe-l’oeil vests and textured cummerbunds enriched visual storytelling. The collection blurred boundaries, offering a poetic wardrobe that embraced expressive layering, playful contradiction and relaxed sophistication.

Fendi

Fendi envisioned a relaxed summer through fluid silhouettes and vibrant colour. Modular tailoring, organzacollared bombers and sheer jacquard sets created lightness and visual play. Bright buttonhole detailing enhanced tailoring precision. The palette of bubblegum pink, turquoise and yellow reinforced optimism while maintaining artisanal refinement, balancing expressive colour with technical craftsmanship and wearable romance.

Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis referenced the Roaring Twenties through restrained monochrome punctuated by Ferragamo red and animal prints. Deconstructed knits, vintage-grain leather jackets and relaxed pajama tailoring incorporated archival lace and textured leather details. The collection conveyed generational continuity, merging heritage storytelling with contemporary softness and understated elegance across layered textures and refined silhouettes.

Giorgio Armani

City living and holiday ease converged through relaxed tailoring and airy construction. Abbreviated double-breasted jackets with shawl collars paired with wide teardrop-pleated trousers tapered at the ankle. The silhouette emphasised lightness, balance and fluid sophistication, reinforcing Armani’s signature harmony between structure and softness while maintaining effortless elegance suitable for modern transitional lifestyles.

Gucci

Under the theme “La Famiglia,” Gucci explored sensual extremes through eclectic character archetypes. Maximalist opera coats contrasted minimalist hosiery, while heritage icons were revitalised with provocative glamour. Menswear embraced transparent bodywear and black-tie swim styling, signaling a bold recalibration of identity and expressive confidence for the house’s evolving creative direction.

Hermès

Véronique Nichanian emphasised breathable luxury and discreet sophistication for SS26. Structured macs, wide-leg trousers, perforated leathers and gradient knits formed a refined urban uniform. Earth-toned palettes reinforced calm restraint. Innovation focused on material development rather than narrative theatrics, maintaining Hermès’s timeless clarity and functional elegance for understated modern dressing.

Isabel Marant

The collection captured sun-bleached European travel memories through khaki, bronze and soft sunset tones. Western embroidery merged with surfer references seen in laser-striped denim and floral graphics. Straighter trousers and fluid tailoring refined the silhouette, while satin bombers and graphic fleece reinforced a relaxed, nostalgic sensibility grounded in effortless seasonal dressing.

Jil Sander

Simone Bellotti balanced minimalist rigor with fluid tension. Vertical tailoring, irregular hems and technical fabrics reinforced architectural clarity. Neutral palettes were punctuated by sudden saturated colour, generating controlled contrast. Knitwear, square-toe footwear and multifunctional accessories completed a modern uniform that felt both protective and expressive, extending the brand’s legacy with disciplined innovation.

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