Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 1 of 4)
Chloe Lyu reports on the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collections by major fashion maisons
Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia’s distinctive approach to restructuring garments was on full display this season, with retro looks given a rebellious twist. For menswear, the cropped spherical balloon jacket was reimagined in various forms, paired with super-low- rise jeans. Gvasalia made the collar a standout element, including Medici-inspired stand collars made of rigid denim that provided a dramatic silhouette.
Bottega Veneta
Memories of childhood and trying on one’s parents’ clothes inspired this unique collection. Matthieu Blazy showcased oversized tailored proportions – ultra-wide shoulders and lapels that almost touched the sleeves – as well as asymmetric evening wear that presented a “chic awkwardness”. Accessories, such as “plastic” bags made of leather printed with pictures of mermaids, and a pink and purple backpack slung over the shoulder, added to the childlike fun.
Burberry
This collection witnessed the redefined lightness at Burberry under Daniel Lee’s leadership, creating more accessible products and injecting vitality into the classics. The classic trench reflected a greater ease, practicality and wearability, with details such as flaps, straps and epaulettes applied to coats, drummer boy jackets and safari suiting for men. The classic check was adapted into different varieties, as seen in the field jackets, half-zips and technical pants.
Celine
This season, Hedi Slimane paid homage to a bygone era of English style with a collection entitled “The Bright Young”. Using traditional English fabrics like 1920s summer cashmeres and wools, the collection showed boating blazers and trimmed jackets in a reflection of English tailoring. Celine’s heraldic patches were made of polished silver cannetille, which replicated traditional embroidery techniques.
Dior
The adorable ceramic cat sculptures that appeared on this season’s Dior catwalk were blown-up versions of the work of South African ceramist Hylton Nel, who inspired the collection. Nel’s influence on the entire collection came in many forms, with cute sketched animal prints appearing on sweaters and shirts, and ceramic animals being used as buttons for knitted vests. An oversized handbag featured the handwritten slogan “Dior for my true friends”.
Dries Van Noten
Saying goodbye is always difficult. Dries Van Noten presented his final collection as creative director of his eponymous brand this season, reflecting on his nearly 40-year career in fashion. Alain Gossuin opened the show in an elongated double-breasted coat and fluffy sandals. Striking prints, still Van Noten’s style, were then followed with another of the designer’s great loves – metallics.
Ferragamo
Drawing from the brand archives and the history of ballet, Maximilian Davis incorporated different historical eras into this collection of his work. Slim-fitting practice uniforms, opera coats and belted low waists all reflected the ballet style that permeated the collection.
Also see: Met Gala 2025 looks
