Menswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 3 of 4)
Chloe Lyu reports on the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collections by major fashion maisons
JW Anderson
With the slogan “Real Sleep,” JW Anderson’s latest collection gave away the designer’s cosy inspiration, starting with oversized fluffy quilted coats in cream, pink and navy hues, echoing duvet covers. Structural denim dresses and ruffled jackets showed playful modern silhouettes, while folded silk textiles cascaded over essential shirts. There were also sweaters and knitted dresses that resembled classic English houses.
Lanvin
Inspired by heritage, this season Lanvin featured two capsules that maintained classic silhouettes and muted colour palettes, emphasising drapery and fluid tailoring. Casual tailored jackets, shorts and trousers were paired with trendy shirt cuffs and layering to bring life to the perfect casual looks. In terms of material, thick, luxurious mouliné contrasted with light, soft poplin shirts.
Loewe
In this collection, Jonathan Anderson explored how pieces transitioned in movement. The standout was bound to be the wildest high-rise and deep- pleated slacks, manipulated into a waterfall-like texture with undulating leather or suiting wool form. A polo shirt hand- embroidered with feathers in a houndstooth pattern showcased Loewe’s craftsmanship, and the brand’s moniker was turned into a colourful dramatised top.
Loro Piana
Loro Piana commemorated its century-long legacy through a contemporary reimagination of its classic silhouettes, material blends and craftsmanship techniques. One particular material played a starring role: linen, which came into play in a number of garments like breathable blazers and flowy shirt jackets to create a sense of light sophistication. The iconic Spagna jacket also returned in a light brown version, made of a tweed-like weave. The collection also brought pops of yellow and red hues to the classic nautical- themed anorak.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton’s SS25 collection served as an ideal companion for globetrotters. Presenting on the roof of UNESCO’s Paris headquarters, Pharrell Williams was inspired by the “similarities that bind us together across the globe”, and explored the brand’s travel origins and global influence. From cropped tailored jackets and pixelated world-map- printed jackets to flight uniforms and “LV AIRWAYS” slogan silk ties, the collection paid tribute to airline pilots.
Miu Miu
Miuccia Prada used simple clothing as a response to the era of overstimulation and over- information, and progressively deconstructed the purest classics. Pieces such as baggy trench coats and drawstring hoodies harked back to childhood innocence. Actor Willem Dafoe wore a slouchy mac and grey slacks, with one side of his collar casually hanging out from beneath his crewneck, bringing a perfect conclusion to the collection.
Saint Laurent
With this collection, Anthony Vaccarello continued the style of power dressing from SS25 womenswear. He started with the classic suit, muted grey or cream blazers with bright button- up tops, and tailored trousers. Colourful ties and silky scarves were the embellished highlights of the collection, some paired with patterned shirts, others draped alone over the shoulder, and still others poking out from under bold-shouldered sports coats.
