Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 1 of 4)
Chloe Lyu reports on the Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collections by major fashion maisons
Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia’s stated intention was “a tribute to fashion that has a point of view”. Her entire collection focused on hard-core fashion, boldly redefining the traditional notions of lingerie, and offering a fresh perspective with dresses featuring high necklines and dramatic cutouts. This captured the essence of the designer’s philosophy, which challenges convention while celebrating individual expression.
Balmain
The human body, Balmain’s iconic blazer and African culture were the inspiration for this collection. Olivier Rousteing, who has been Balmain’s creative director for 13 years, drew on the guidance of many of his earliest looks for the brand this season. The pointed shoulders of coats and dresses and intricately embroidered portrait patterns were all in Balmain’s DNA.
Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy showed oversized jackets and one-legged pants under asymmetrical wrap skirts in this collection, recalling “your first experience of fashion when you try your parents’ clothes”. Animal elements were everywhere, with animal-shaped leather bean bags, frog heels and lapels in the shape of bunnies in leather coats. Playful and purposeful, it evoked a new kind of power dressing: the power of sincerity.
Burberry
This collection was “grounded in joy and a warm sense of familiarity”. Daniel Lee gave the iconic Burberry check a toned-down makeover, while reworking the classic trench in various ways. The collection’s light fabrics and colour palette – think green, grey, beige and latte – recreated a feeling of protection in the outdoors.
Also see: Paris Fashion Week 2025 highlights (part 1 of 2)
Celine
Hedi Slimane’s SS25 collection was presented in film form, with the creative director taking inspiration from French singer and actress Juliette Gréco and re-reading Françoise Sagan’s novel La Chamade, to bring viewers back to French summers of the 1960s. Signs of the times were seen throughout and reimagined in modern ways – suede, houndstooth, leather, bows, leopard print, chequered prints and more.
Chloé
Chemena Kamali’s second collection as creative director was presented in a bohemian show that harked back to the roots and femininity of 1970s Chloé. Lace dominated the looks, showcased in tops, dresses, ankle-tied corsair pants and delicate lingerie throughout the collection. Dresses with floral prints in strong colours and large motifs were also worthy of attention.
Chanel
Chanel returned to the Grand Palais after four years with a collection about freedom and liberation, which was “a tribute to women who freed themselves from the cumbersome gaze of society, just like Gabrielle Chanel”. The theme continued into looks featuring feathers and chiffon, paired with Chanel’s signature tweed, which served as an ode to freedom, delicacy, lightness and movement.
Dior
The Olympic spirit of this summer in Paris continued at Dior, where the connection between sport, fashion and the body inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri. Starting with the Amazon dress designed by Dior for the autumn/winter 1951 collection, the athleisure pieces were combined with tailored looks in the classic Dior silhouette and floaty evening dresses, presenting a strong, active modern femininity.
