Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 4 of 4)
Chloe Lyu reports on the Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collections by major fashion maisons
Saint Laurent
In this collection, Anthony Vaccarello introduced a fluid suit look inspired by Yves Saint Laurent, featuring double-breasted suits that accentuate a body with wider shoulders and narrowed at the waist. Another part of the collection took on a more bohemian style, with tonal ensembles transforming into technicolour dresses, along with draped and embroidered looks.
Schiaparelli
This collection by Daniel Roseberry continued Schiaparelli’s couture approach to creating an essential and timeless wardrobe for women. Classic pieces such as jeans and white shirts were central to the collection, while the hourglass shape was a recurring theme and embroidery was drastically reduced. The unique silhouette of the tennis polo was the highlight of the collection.
Shiatzy Chen
Based on the theme “Sense of Ink” from last season, Shiatzy Chen explored the profound significance of the brush to the rhythmic flow of Chinese culture and the shaping of creative imagination. Each garment subtly echoed the silhouette of the brush and was dominated by black, white and neutral tones, evoking an understated calm and restrained atmosphere. Accessories also took centre stage, with metal heels shaped to mimic elegant brush strokes.
Sportmax
Presented in the grand halls of Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera, Sportmax’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection celebrated the freedom of a body in motion through an exercise in intuition and restraint. Silhouettes embraced a fluid yet sculptural aesthetic, and asymmetric details and contrasting layering infused the collection with an optical dynamism.
Also see: Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 2 of 4)
Tod’s
Matteo Tamburini presented a collection inspired by a journey along the Mediterranean coast, with an emphasis on “Artisanal Intelligence”. The iconic trench coat, made of cotton and leather, was presented with a new, flowing silhouette in various lengths. The coastal theme continued in the natural colour palette, featuring sea blue, meadow green, sand and rock-face bronze.
Valentino
Alessandro Michele’s new era in Valentino has begun. His whole collection was imbued with the spirit of the 1960s and ’70s, with chiffon gowns adorned with intricate patterns of Swarovski crystals and floral-printed dresses paired with embellished waistcoats. Accessories, including wide-brimmed fedoras, chain-handle bags and diamond trimming, echoed the outfits.
Versace
Donatella Versace “wanted to bring colour, light, optimism and joy”. Opening with zigzagging knitted cardigans and polos, and slinky floral skirts, her spring/summer collection certainly set a joyous tone. A sequined gown made with 3D printing technology was the highlight of the show.
Vivienne Westwood
For “Calibrate”, Andreas Kronthaler chose to show women’s clothing exclusively, conveying “brainy sexiness” and a sense of the “ultra-feminine rather than elegant”. The collection was filled with sheer fabrics, with splashes of hot red or pink in an otherwise muted palette. Buttoned-up double-breasted suits, slimming pencil skirts and organza headpieces still showcased the brand’s signature sophistication.
